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.4.Apart from Girvin (The Master Planter) and David Livingstone Crawford (Hawaii's Crop Parade, 129) whodiscussed the commercial future of sixty-eight different fruits, see Agnes B.Alexander (How to Use HawaiianFruit), who gave recipes for 21 fruits; Carey Dunlap Miller, Katherine Bazore, and Mary Bartow (Fruits of Hawaii),who gave recipes for 37; and the Hilo Woman's Club (Hilo Woman's Club Cook Book), with recipes for 16.5.The two fruits that were native were akala and ohelo.The Hawaiians added bananas and mountain apples.6.Marilyn Rittenhouse Harris' Tropical Fruit Cookbook suggested numerous recipes for Hawaii's fruits, both thecommon and the rarer varieties.7.Girvin, The Master Planter, 117.8.This recipe is from the fifth edition (1909) of the Hawaiian Cook Book compiled by the Woman's Society ofCentral Union Church in Honolulu.It was sufficiently popular to crop up in the American-Filipino cookbook, Mrs.Samuel Francis Gaches, Good Cooking and Health in the Tropics, 49.9.Crawford, Hawaii's Crop Parade, 221.10.For example, A.B.Alexander, How to Use Hawaiian Fruit, 63.King Sugar1.Quoted by Gavan Daws, Shoal of Time, 174.2.Ibid., chaps.58 give an overview of the history of the sugar industry.See also David Livingstone Crawford,Hawaii's Crop Parade, 246256 and Jacob Adler, Claus Spreckels.3.Mark Twain's Letters from Hawaii, 257275.4.Ronald Takaki, Pau Hana, 19.5.Bonnie Tuell, Island Cooking, 21.Juicy Pineapple from the Fair Hawaiian Isles1.Richard B.Dole and Elizabeth Dole Porteus, The Story of James Dole, 60.Most of the information in this essay istaken from that book.2.Ibid., chaps.12 and 26.See also David Livingstone Crawford, Hawaii's Crop Parade, 197206.3.See, for example, the promotional cookbook, The Thatched Kitchen, put together by the Hawaii company Castleand Cooke in 1972 to promote canned pineapple with recipes such as color passion curry, tuna Polynesian, andTahitian chicken.4.Ross H.Gast and Agnes C.Conrad, Don Francisco de Paula Marin, 52.5.Dole and Porteus, The Story of James Dole, 57.6.Jane Grigson's Fruit Book, 338.7.Hawaiian Electric Company, Health for Victory Club, 35.See also Hilo Woman's Club, Hilo Woman's Club CookBook, which features Ham Hawaiian and Chicken Hawaiian, each with canned pineapple, in the meat and poultrysections, respectively; of the 17 recipes for pineapple as a fruit, only one specifies fresh, six specify canned, and theremaining recipes are ambiguous though the frequent mention ofjuice suggests cans because it is hard to juice apineapple without an electric juicer.8.Central Union Church, Honolulu, Woman's Society, Hawaiian Cook Book, 114.9.Agnes B.Alexander, How to Use Hawaiian Fruit, 53.10.Elizabeth Andoh, An American Taste of Japan, 241242.The Gracious Poi Supper1.Maili Yardley, Hawaii Cooks, 18.2.John F.McDermott, Wen-shing Tseng, and Thomas Maretzki, Peoples and Cultures of Hawaii, 2831.See alsoNiklaus Schwizer, Hawai'i and the German Speaking Peoples.3.The kapus (taboos) that constrained many aspects of women's eating, and particularly prohibited them from eatingwith men, had been successively broken in the decade between 1810 and 1820, thus making adaptation to haoleways possible.See Gavan Daws, Shoal of Time, 5660.4.Schwizer, Hawai'i and the German Speaking Peoples, 9397.5.Yardley, Hawaii Cooks, 1417.6.The classic kamaaina cookbooks, apart from Yardley (Hawaii Cooks, Hawaii Cooks: The Island Way; andHawaii Cooks Throughout the Year), are The Helen Alexander Hawaiian Cook Book; Central Union Church,Hawaiian Cook Book; Dora Jane Isenberg Cole and Juliet Rice Wichman, The Kauai Museum Presents Early KauaiHospitality; Hilo Woman's Club, Hilo Woman's Club Cook Book (frequently reprinted); and The Epicure in Hawaii.7.Judith Midgely Kirkendall, "Hawaiian Ethnogastronomy," 121122.8.The Helen Alexander Hawaiian Cook Book, 199.Page 2629.James Walter Girvin, The Master Planter, 119.10.Carey Dunlap Miller, Food Values of Poi, Taro, and Limu; Martha Potgieter, "Taro as a Food."Food for Visitors1.The Chinese restaurant that advertises regularly in the Mexico News, for example, is called the Luau.In Montrealthere is a "Hawaiian" restaurant that offers a drink called a "yellow bird," identified as the drink of Waikiki Island.Not only have I never come across such a drink in Hawaii, but Waikiki is not an island.But what does that matter tothe freezing Montrealian? And there is a certain poetic justice: Waikiki is cut off from the rest of Oahu by a drainagecanal.2.For a classic account, see Trader Vic's Pacific Island Cookbook.3.Because these are designed mainly for an audience of visitors and main-landers, I have not attempted to listanything like all of them in the bibliography.But examples are Trader Vic's Pacific Island Cookbook; DonFitzGerald, The Pacifica House Hawaii Cook Book; Elizabeth Ahn Toupin, Hawaii Cookbook; and Hawaii StateSociety of Washington, D.C., Hawaiian Cuisine
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